PERSIAN PAISLEY
I have begun to notice a pattern (quite literally) whilst browsing the stores and streets of London. It all started in Primark's home section and escalated to Topshop's new IDOL range. Even Paperchase have jumped on the bandwagon...
I am talking about Paisley, the curved cashew and almond shaped print that has its roots in Persian antiquity. Using the Boteh بته meaning 'bush, cluster of leaves or a flower bud' the motif is believed to be the convergence of a stylized floral spray and a cypress tree: a Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity...
The seed-like symbol came into prominence in Persia's Sassanid dynasty and was later used in the 16th century Safavid. The style was then worn by Amir Kabir, chief minister to Naser-al Din Shah during the Qajar. Kabir was known as 'Iran's first reformer' who was executed as he attempted to bring modernisation to the country. The textile continued to triumph in the Pahlavi period and was opulently worn by Mohammad Reza Shah and his wife Farah as well as adorning their palace walls and grounds...
The appeal of paisley for rockstars and musicians comes from the motif's unique and exotic air. The Zoroastrian symbolism and Persian nobility also make it meaningful and alluring. It has that 'over the top' quality which is perfect for performers. Today, artists and brands are still just as dedicated to the droplet. The drummer from The Hellacopters is regularly seen rocking a paisley shirt and Liam Gallagher's Pretty Green label is packed with the print. Liberty London have always championed the textile in the form of scarfs, tote bags, ties and dresses and luxury Italian house Etro showcase the teardrop in almost all of their collections...
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| 4000-year-old Cypress of Abarkuh |
The seed-like symbol came into prominence in Persia's Sassanid dynasty and was later used in the 16th century Safavid. The style was then worn by Amir Kabir, chief minister to Naser-al Din Shah during the Qajar. Kabir was known as 'Iran's first reformer' who was executed as he attempted to bring modernisation to the country. The textile continued to triumph in the Pahlavi period and was opulently worn by Mohammad Reza Shah and his wife Farah as well as adorning their palace walls and grounds...
It was around the couple's latter reign that the Boteh Jegheh became popular in the West, particularly during England's Swinging Sixties and America's Summer of Love. Just like its friend TIE-DYE!, the pattern portrayed individuality and freedom, possibly in part to its literal 'tree of life' roots. This emblem was perfect for a period where people craved peace, spirituality and an escape from the confines of conservative dressing...
Bands like The Beatles and acts like Jimi Hendrix were devoted to the design and rocked it in the form of flamboyant onesies, psychedelic shirts and jackets and silk neckerchiefs in a choker-style. Guitar manufacturers Fender designed their 1968 Telecaster in the popular print and even Elvis Presley wore a paisley jacket for his 1967 wedding to Priscilla...
Fast-forward to the late 70s and early 80s, legendary singer Prince was a patriot to paisley, wearing it on stage in eclectic and purple coloured pieces and even naming his estate in Minnesota after the humble herb...
