WAISTCOATS!
The waistcoat is the hottest trend this Spring/Summer with magazines such as Vogue writing about the traditionally mens garment in an article entitled: 'Is Fashion Ready for the Return of the Tiny Little Vest?', Who What Wear headlining their story: 'The Waistcoat Is Back, and It's Better Than Ever,' ELLE UK proclaiming the piece 'a triumphant return,' and Stylist calling it 'the most surprising trend infiltrating the fashion sphere this year.' Even newspapers like the Evening Standard and MailOnline have featured the sleeveless ensemble in their list of SS20 trends. Searches for 'waistcoats' peaked in November 2019, according to shopping platform Lyst, and Net-A-Porter hero-d the item as one of this season's must-haves. The catwalks paid homage to the androgynous look, most notably, Saint Laurent, who clad the 19-year-old daughter of '90s super Cindy in a classic black version complete with pinstripe shorts and belt reminiscent of Kate Moss at Glastonbury 2005.
Kate's memorable appearance at the legendary festival with her then boyfriend, The Libertines frontman Pete Doherty, in a skin-tight waistcoat, micro shorts, studded belt and cross-body bag is one of the model's most recognisable looks. By taking a semi-fancy gentlemen's garment and rocking it at a music festival exudes a punk attitude and encapsulates the Croydon native's effortless but stylish rock chic aesthetic. As Harper's BAZAAR writes: 'There is something irreverent about taking a piece so linked with the Etonian elite and playing with its meaning.' The outfit sparked festival fashion with The Telegraph noting: 'The potential for the festival to be a fashion platform was born.'
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| 📸 By MJ Kim Via Vogue |
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| Antique Persian Vests Via THE GENTLEMEN'S GENT |
Inspired by Persian fashion brought back by wealthy travellers from Iran 🕊, the waistcoat first appeared in England at the court of Charles II in the 1660s. The King wished to distance himself from the extravagant French mode and decided a vest was the way to do it. The new style was announced by royal decree, with Samuel Pepys recording it in his diary on 8 October, 1666: 'The King hath yesterday in Council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes, which he will never alter. It will be a vest. I know not well how. But it is to teach the nobility thrift, and will do good.' John Evelyn also writes about the get-up on 18 October: 'To Court, it being the first time his Majesty put himself solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changing doublet, stiff collar, bands and cloak, into a comely dress after the Persian mode.' Styles varied from single to double-breasted, with or without lapels, but always cut long - usually to mid-thigh, as written by Mason & Sons. By the early 19th century, the waistcoat had turned into a flamboyant and decorative garment with court dandies making it a thing of colour and style, as noted by Samuel Windsor.
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| Dandy Via Historical Emporium |
Fast-forward to the '60s, hippies of the U.S. counterculture movement adopted the attire in the form of paisley and psychedelic prints as well as suede with fringe detailing, shifting away from its early 20th century aesthetic that saw the waistcoat become part of mens daily workwear. Mods also embraced the vest including a 15-year-old Marc Bolan who featured in Town in a bespoke leather version, later going on to become the King of Glam with his band T. Rex. Other musicians to rock the look included Stones guitarist Keith Richards who 'frequently paired black waistcoats with loose, flowing button-down shirts,' as noted by British GQ, and Jimi Hendrix, who wore a leather one in a photo by David Montgomery. The star owned a number of Persian-esque vests including a paisley and flower design that sold at auction in 2014. The mid '70s saw variations of the style emerge due to the rise of punk and motorcycle culture with skinheads and bikers in North America and Europe wearing cut-offs made from denim or leather jackets emblazoned with studs, patches and badges.
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| 📸 By Dennis Hallinan Via Getty Images |
'Occasional Thespian' and Hollywood Vampires guitarist Johnny Depp is also a fan of the upper-body garment, rocking it at many a red carpet, talk show and curbside pap pic in his signature pirate-esque look. The actor's love of the waistcoat proves the vest's versatility from dandies and businessmen to footballers and rockers 🤟🏼. Tailoring expert, Edward Dutton, of A Suit That Fits, recognises the apparel's adaptability: 'Today, the waistcoat has carved out an unusual place within men’s fashion — in part, because it’s one of the most versatile garments a man can own.' Samuel Windsor also notes the item's omnipresence: 'The waistcoat is ubiquitous. Seen on indie kids, pop stars, city bankers and trendy hipsters, it’s transcended sartorial boundaries.'
Saint Laurent's Kaia Gerber was a nod to Glasto Kate, albeit 'the cleaned-up version,' as Vogue writes, Celine went '70s boho in an unbuttoned waistcoat, blouse and flared jeans, Louis Vuitton clashed a grey printed vest with a red top and black and white pinstripe trousers for a unique take on the traditional three-piece suit, and Burberry sent Puerto Rican model Joan Smalls down the LFW runway rocking a cropped check waistcoat and shades. The high street have also hopped on the waaskat wagon including ZARA with four versions under £50 and MANGO with a denim and peach at £36.
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| GUCCI Web-Striped Wool-Blend Waistcoat, £750, NET-A-PORTER |
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| Giuliva Heritage Andrea Vest In Wool Pinstripe, £230, MATCHESFASHION |
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| Dolce & Gabbana Pink Darted Silk-Blend Suit Waistcoat, £675, MATCHESFASHION |
Models have also buttoned-up including Bella Hadid who was spotted at Paris Fashion Week wearing a pinstriped Dilara Findikoglu creation complete with matching trousers and shirt. InStyle even have an article dedicated to the Palestinian-Dutch's devotion to the sleeveless ensemble. Vogue's Liana Satenstein writes: 'There is something charming about the fundamentally useless vest, with its ability to skim the body and highlight the waist.' Giuliva's Margherita Cardelli also tells Harper's BAZAAR: 'I love wearing a waistcoat with a suit… it defines the figure and makes the look feel sexier.' The return of the waistcoat for 2020 could also have something to do with the climate of gender fluidity, with Ella Alexander noting: 'The tomboyish edge of a waistcoat is a huge part of its charm.' TIEing into the above is tailoring with MATCHESFASHION increasing its buy of suit jackets by 77% and tailored trousers by 64%. 'Waistcoats complement this trend,' says buying director Natalie Kingham to Harper's.